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And we are not sure that we can trust the traditional descriptions and explanations of the arts, often mythological, that were developed after the fact. We do have some written sources that are sometimes relevant to the subject, and it is safe to say that some first-person oral accounts tell a true tale. So the training techniques in this book obviously cannot be authenticated. They are the result of understanding that the human body can be made to perform only so many actions. They are also based on common sense, which was essential to what the settlers of colonial America were trying to accomplish in their lives—just as their forebears in the Old World had done for centuries. Their axes and knives could serve as either tools or weapons. Those who had the implements, as did almost all, knew how to use them. THE HATCHET OR THE TOMAHAWK Ever since humans first figured out how to make and use tools, the hand ax in one form or another has been used for splitting skulls or pieces of wood for kindling.
The large ax came much later. The rest of the time the hatchets were used in the same way that civilians employed them: for firewood and hacking up tough cuts of meat. The hatchet, made of steel, was an instant success among the indigenous peoples of the eastern parts of North America, and they were manufactured as quickly as possible for trade purposes. These little axes took on forms that would not be quite recognizable in Europe e. Among the military units in the British colonies of North America the hatchet was common, for obvious reasons.
And it did become popular among the settlers, as well as the British regulars posted to the colonies. During the Seven Years War locally the French and Indian War of —, among others, the individual colonies were raising militia units and trying to equip them. European regular army regiments formed special light infantry units to operate in the wild lands and wars of the 18th-century colonies, and among other clothing and equipment modifications, they made sure they had their tomahawks. The long knife was definitely used in close-quarter combat, just as it had always been in brawls, and occasionally in battle, in the Old World. Let's train! Chapter 1 HISTORY OF THE TOMAHAWK From the earliest centuries of European invasion and settlement, the use of edged weapons in North America paralleled that in Europe; the sword and knife remained popular sidearms.
However, change was in the wind. By the late 17th century, halberds and partisans had become symbols of military rank rather than fighting weapons. Pikes were dropped from the militia inventory; the lance was kept only by some European cavalry units. Traditionally, the tomahawk was associated with the North American Indian. The word tomahawk is derived from the Algonquian tamahakan and refers to the use of any type of striking weapon: wooden war clubs and stone-headed axes were in this category. When the tribes began to acquire hatchets from European traders, naturally this term was applied to these new weapons.
But the vast majority of tomahawks were made by either European or colonial smiths, and very few were produced by the Native Americans. Even as the sword passed from common use, the tomahawk continued to be carried because of its usefulness as a tool, if nothing else. The tomahawk was notable because of its ease of maintenance and its durability. Its head was virtually unbreakable, and usually only a file or stone was all that was required to maintain a functional edge. An occasional application of oil or grease was sufficient to prevent rusting. Even under the most extreme treatment, the handle was usually all that required replacement. The head of the tomahawk was especially versatile. In addition to cutting, the top could be used for thrusting. The back hammer or pipe could function as a mace or club. The tomahawk could be thrown up to 50 feet, and the weight of the weapon alone was sufficient to drop an enemy whether hit by the edge, hammer, or handle.
The close-quarter combat characteristics of the tomahawk were also impressive. Holding the weapon with the hand halfway up the handle allows the delivery of closerange slashes with the edge. This grip also extends the handle for clubbing or thrusting. The tomahawk has three disadvantages: 1 the tapering handle makes the weapon difficult to hold if a target is missed; 2 closely related, the heavy head and gravity combine to make some strikes very expansive and therefore difficult to recover from should they be missed and the enemy counterattacks; and 3 the handle of the tomahawk can be easily broken if it strikes a heavier weapon.
HEAD DESIGNS OF THE COMMON TOMAHAWK Depicted above are the head designs for the three tomahawks seen in this book. Figure B is a hammer poll tomahawk made in France around the s. Figure C is a pipe tomahawk from the late s. The techniques in this text can be performed with most any ax or tomahawk-like weapon. Even Indian war clubs can be used. The handles of tomahawks during this period varied greatly in length and size. The average handle length was about 16 inches from the end of the handle to the tip of the head. The handles of some were up to 19 inches. The longer handle was probably chosen to enhance the leverage needed for various chopping chores.
Some common tomahawks are shown on the following pages for comparison. TOMAHAWK PARTS TOMAHAWK HANDLES Chapter 2 GRIPS There is no single correct way to grip the tomahawk. Strength, hand size, weight of the head, and distance to the target all have an impact on the grip to be used. In this book we are concerned with two grip factors: the position of the fingers around the handle and the placement of the hand on the handle. There are two basic grips for the tomahawk: extended and hammer. Either grip may be used with three basic holds on the handle: the long position holding the tomahawk by the end , the half-choke holding it halfway up the handle position, and the full-choke position holding it with the hand immediately against the head of the weapon. Determining which grip is appropriate depends on how the cutting head of the tomahawk is presented. The chop with a tomahawk penetrates the target instead of cutting through it. The effective grip for a slash is the extended grip; the best grip for a chop is usually the hammer grip.
From the aspect of hand position, both grips may be used in the three basic positions on the handle: the long, half choke, and full choke. The next few diagrams depict these grips and positions to perform slashes and chops. EXTENDED GRIP This grip maximizes the delivery of the slash. Hand positions that facilitate this grip are the long and the half-choke positions. The long position is normally used for medium-range combat, while the half choke is for close quarters. HAMMER GRIP The hammer grip maximizes the delivery of the chop.
Hand positions that facilitate this grip are the long choke, half choke, and full choke. The long position is normally used for medium range, whereas the half choke and full choke are best for close quarters. Both the chop and slash can be delivered from the full-choke position, and the extended handle can also be used as a striking element. Chapter 3 STANCES The selection of a fighting stance is purely a matter of personal preference; you should use the one that is most comfortable. Remember that in both single and multiple combat the stance is only a place from which to start an offensive or defensive action. It is not a static position but rather one that a fighter comes back to when there is a lull in the engagement. Some factors to consider when selecting a stance are the following: From any stance you must be able to move quickly laterally, forward, or to the rear to either attack or avoid an attack.
You must maintain your balance or center of gravity. Shorter people may find that they are more comfortable with the wider, deeper stance, while those who are taller may prefer a more upright stance with their feet closer together. When you are in the middle of the battlefield or an ambush, there is little time to draw your weapons and assume a stance. All practice should emphasize drawing the tomahawk both in and off balance and going immediately into the attack. Remember, the tomahawk and long knife are basically backup weapons to be used when firearms misfire or cannot be reloaded. In these situations only a fool would assume that an attacking enemy will give him time to assume a stance.
Train accordingly. There are three fundamental stances that lend themselves to tomahawk use: the strong-sideforward stance, weak-side-forward stance, and frontal stance STRONG-SIDE-FORWARD STANCE To assume the strong-side-forward stance, stand straight with feet shoulder-width apart and on line. Rotate the left foot approximately 10 degrees to the left and move it back to the rear about 12 to 15 inches. Move the right weapon arm up to a half-chamber position and hold the tomahawk slightly forward in either a hammer or an extended grip. NOTE: Movements are exactly the opposite for lefthanded fighters. ASSUMING THE STRONG-SIDE-FORWARD STANCE 1. Start in a frontal stance. Shift the right foot approximately 10 degrees to the right.
Step back 10 to 15 inches. WEAK-SIDE-FORWARD STANCE To assume the weak- or knife- side-forward stance, stand straight with feet shoulder-width apart and on line. Rotate the right foot approximately 10 degrees to the right and move it back to the rear about 12 to 15 inches. Move the right weapon arm back to full-chamber position. Extend the knife or the empty hand forward, slightly flexed in either a saber or reverse grip. Assuming the Weak-Side-Forward Stance 1. Step back 10 to 15 inches FRONTAL STANCE The frontal stance is used primarily when you are armed with a weapon in each hand. Basically, the torso is turned toward the opponent with the left or right leg pulled back approximately 6 inches for balance. Weapons can be held in extended arms with a slight flex and parallel to each other in front of the torso. Another application is with either the right or left weapon held back high or low.
Chapter 4 GUARDS While the stances are of primary concern with foot position, the guards are mostly concerned with the arm and hand positions. As with the stance, the guards are not firm, fixed positions but rather positions from which an engagement is begun or returned to during lulls in the fighting. Stances and guards work together to provide the maximum protection possible. The primary aspect for any guard is the position of the arms. There are basically three positions in which the arms may be held when assuming any guard or stance: extended, at half chamber, and at full chamber. ARMS AT EXTENDED POSITION Effective for fighting at medium ranges ARMS AT HALF CHAMBER This can be a transition position from one move to another.
It is often used when moving from mediumto close-quarter engagements and vice versa. ARMS AT FULL CHAMBER This is used primarily during close-quarter or ground engagements but is also seen when disengaging the weapon or avoiding an attack to the arm. Three common guards are associated with the stance: high, middle, and low. As with stances, guards are simply positions from which to begin an engagement and return to during a lull in the fighting. The guard used depends on the type of weapon your opponent has and the manner in which he presents it. The three guards are discussed more in the section on fighting scenarios. Tomahawk in high guard and long knife in middle guard Tomahawk in middle guard and long knife in middle guard Tomahawk in low guard and long knife in middle guard Chapter 5 DRAWING THE TOMAHAWK AND LONG KNIFE The technique of drawing is directly tied to the carrying position, which is a matter of personal preference.
Historically speaking, it seems there was a trend for three carry positions: the left-side carry, the right-side carry, and the back carry. The left-side carry appears to have originated in the military before the French and Indian Wars. Evidence indicates that frogs were modified to carry a tomahawk or hatchet. Earlier inventories and drawings indicate that this was a common practice with, among others, the French marines. From these records we can infer that only those individuals with experience in the European armies of the s retained the habit of a left-side carry, probably with a standard waist belt without the frogs. Source paintings and drawings also reinforce the theory that rightside and back carry were common to longhunters, frontiersmen, and Indians.
In all three carry positions, the location of the long knife in relation to the tomahawk provided options: tomahawk and long knife together on the same side, tomahawk on one side and long knife on the other, and so on. Although this text details only three of the options, you are encouraged to explore the possibilities to find the one that best suits your skill level. LEFT-SIDE CARRY The two illustrations on the following page show a British and a French sword and bayonet belt from the late 17th and midth centuries. For our training purposes the tomahawk and long knife are positioned together on the left side as depicted in the second illustration. In cold weather the mittens, and sometimes the bullet-bag, occupied the front part of it. To the right side was suspended the tomahawk and to the left the scalping knife in its leather sheath.
Joseph Doddridge, — Notes on the settlements and Indian Wars of western parts of Virginia and Pennsylvania British sword and bayonet belt ca. Action 2: Right hand swings across the stomach and under the beak of the tomahawk. Simultaneously the left leg steps out and passes to the rear, arriving in a strong-side-forward stance. Action 3: The left hand pushes the tip of the tomahawk forward and out of the belt. The right hand grasps the tomahawk in a full-choke grip below the head. NOTES: 1. The long knife may also be drawn using the saber grip, but this requires the rotation of the left hand clockwise toward the body over the knife handle to secure the grip. It also requires the blade to be pulled free of the sheath and rotated counterclockwise to put it into action. Much training is needed to acquire the skill and timing to bring the weapon into action rapidly.
The advantages for drawing the long knife in reverse grip are ease of control and speed of action. Both the reverse and saber grip should be practiced as part of the training regimen. Action 4: As the right hand pulls, the left hand is guided up to the position of the long knife, which is grasped in a reverse grip and pulled from the sheath. Action 5: Bring the tomahawk and long knife into a middle- or high-guard position. The tomahawk is still held with a full-choke grip; to adjust to another grip, simply drop the handle end back onto the hip and slide the hand to the desired grip. NOTE: Practice the draw regularly with 10 to 15 repetitions of the complete sequence. As your skill increases, combine the draw with the attack sequences covered later from a variety of upright, kneeling, sitting, side, and supine positions.
When an opponent is closing rapidly, a speedy draw is essential. RIGHT-SIDE CARRY The right-carry position was prevalent on the American frontier between and This illustration shows the common carry of the tomahawk on the right and the long knife on the left. Description of the Tomahawk and Long-Knife Draw from Right-Side Carry Action 1: The right hand swings down following the contour of the torso and grips the tomahawk just below the head. The tomahawk is then pushed forward and up, clearing the belt. Action 2: Simultaneously, the left hand reaches down and back, securing a reverse grip on the long knife and pulling up and out.
The left or right leg can be passed forward or backward to assume either a strong- or weak-side-forward stance. NOTE: Here the long knife is carried on the left side and the tomahawk on the right. As with the left-side carry, the long knife can be positioned on the right with the tomahawk, requiring a cross reach with the left hand. The disadvantage is that the arm reaching across can be easily trapped or pinned by a rapidly closing opponent. TRAINING NOTE: Practice the draw regularly with 10 to 15 repetitions of the complete sequence. As skill increases, combine the draw with the attack sequences covered later from a variety of upright, kneeling, sitting, lying on either side, and supine positions. When an opponent is closing rapidly, a speedy draw is paramount. ACTIONS 1 AND 2 ACTIONS 3 AND 4 NOTE: The visualizations of actions 1—6 on this and the following page demonstrate the draw when the tomahawk and long knife are carried on separate sides.
ACTIONS 5 AND 6 BACK CARRY Another popular carry position among the longhunters had the tomahawk on the right back and the long knife on the left back. The order in which the tomahawk and long knife are drawn is a matter of personal choice and often depends on the closeness of the opponent and which arm may already be engaged. The next three action views depict the draw from the back carry. This particular carry is one of the few options that facilitates the draw with a saber grip. All others that are depicted are best suited for the reverse-grip draw.
ACTION 1 Action 1: The right hand swings back, following the belt line, and secures the tomahawk under the head. ACTION 2 Action 2: Pull the tomahawk handle free of the belt and immediately push it back against the hip. With the tomahawk stabilized against the hip, loosen the grip and slip the hand back to the desired grip on the handle. ACTION 3 Action 3: With the tomahawk clear, swing the left hand back along the belt line and grasp the long knife in a saber grip, bringing it to the guard position. Chapter 6 THE CUT The next few chapters involve the employment of the tomahawk on the offense. For our purposes there are three primary modes of attack: the cut, the chop, and the punch with the head of the weapon. The cut is a smooth-flowing action in which the edge of the tomahawk beak strikes and is pulled through the target area in a way similar to that used with a big knife or cutlass.
Normally, the edge passes uninterrupted through the target without the hook's catching on the target; the action should flow smoothly, almost immediately, into another cut or action. The cut produces a wide, deep wound that is very effective in severing ligaments. The ability to judge the distance accurately and make a proper presentation of the edge is essential for delivering accurate cuts. Because the edge is forward of the axis line of the handle, it is easy to misjudge distance when delivering the cut along the arc of a swing. Familiarity with the shape of the tomahawk beak is imperative.
Because there are many tomahawk and ax designs that can be used in the manner described, it is critical to understand how shape can influence effectiveness. Here is a general rule: those weapons with wide beaks and curved edges will deliver smooth cuts. Figures A through C depict tomahawk-ax designs that produce effective cuts. Action 2: Feeling the weight of the head, begin to shift forward. Straighten the wrist until the arm and hand make a straight line. At that point, with the wrist straight, pull the edge through the target. Chapter 7 THE CHOP The chop is an abrupt hacking motion in which the edge of the tomahawk beak is impeded in the target area.
Because the motion is interrupted on impact, usually the weapon must be retracted in the opposite direction to free it for another attack. The chop produces deep, wide wounds and is quite effective in cleaving though bone and ligaments. Some beak shapes produce more effective chops than cuts. Normally, tomahawks with narrow, straight beaks and straight edges are best suited for delivery. Figures C and D depict two of these shapes. With the cut the wrist is extended; with the chop it remains at a 5-todegree angle from the arm,as depicted below. The angles of attack were used as early as the Middle Ages. Throughout the European continent into the s and s, we see their application in the form of large wall charts that showed the angles and linked them into a drill sequence for technique retention. In an English swordsman by the name of Matheson referred to this drill as flourishing. The term is also mentioned in some firstperson accounts of actual fighting with knife and sword.
For this book, I have adapted this concept to portray and retain the angles of attack for the tomahawk executing both cut and chop techniques. I borrowed this approach from the saber and sword manuals from the s and s. The accompanying illustration is from the user's point of view when looking at an anatomical depiction of an opponent. Note the angles and the target areas covered. Training Condition: You are given a wall chart depicting the eight cut and chop angles arrayed on an anatomical silhouette, a wooden or aluminum training knife, and sufficient horizontal and vertical space to conduct the drill safely.
Training Standard: Execute at least five repetitions of the complete eight-angle cut and chop flourishing drill a minimum of 3 days a week. Angle 2 Angle 1 1. Begin with the tomahawk in either a left- or right-side carry. Draw the tomahawk and come to an immediate high guard. Immediately execute an angle 1 cut to the left side of the opponent's head or neck. As the tomahawk passes through the target area, roll the wrist up and effect an angle 2 cut to the right side of the opponent's head or neck. The accompanying illustration depicts this figure-eight action. This illustration depicts the first figure-eight pattern of the flourishing drill and the approximate target areas that angles 1 and 2 are directed at.
It is shown from the viewpoint of the user. As angle 2 passes through the target area, rotate the palm up, while dropping the tomahawk head toward the ground. Immediately pull the tomahawk upward and across the opponent's left thigh and abdomen area. This completes angle 3. On completion of angle 3, drop the tomahawk head to the left and pull the tomahawk upward and across the opponent's right thigh and abdomen area. This completes angle 4 and the second figure-eight pattern of the flourishing drill. This drawing depicts the second figure-eight pattern of the flourishing drill and the approximate target areas that angles 3 and 4 are directed at. This drawing is from the viewpoint of the user. NOTE: Angles 1 through 4 are performed as cuts that flow smoothly through the target areas. On completion of angle 4, retract the tomahawk into a full chamber and then execute a direct chop to the opponent's left rib section, abdomen, or hip.
This is angle 5. Again, retract the tomahawk to the left and execute another direct chop to the opponent's right rib section, abdomen, or hip. This is angle 6. NOTE: Angles 5 and 6 are chops, which penetrate into the target area. These are not accomplished with the smooth-flowing motion of the cut; rather, they are violent strike-and-retract actions. The illustration below shows the third figure-eight pattern of the flourishing drill and the approximate target areas that angles 5 and 6 are directed at. NOTE: Angles 5, 6, and 7 are performed as chops that are followed by immediate retraction of the weapon before moving to the next angle. On its retraction from angle 6, turn the head of the tomahawk to the left rear. Then swing the tomahawk in an upward arc to chop into the opponent's groin or leg area. This is angle 7. Immediately retract the tomahawk and swing it in a reverse arc overhead, delivering a final cut to the opponent's head or face.
This is angle 8. This drawing shows the final two angles for the flourishing drill and the approximate target areas from the user's view. NOTE: Angle 7 is a chop followed immediately by an angle 8 cut. Repetitions of this drill should be done very slowly at first. Focus should be on executing both the cut and chop techniques properly. The speed of the drill should be increased gradually. It is strongly recommend that this drill be practiced initially on a wall chart before progressing to a mirror. Once you have attained control with the flourishing drill in the open air and using the wall chart, it is time to progress to the pell, or war post.
The pell is usually a log about 12 inches in diameter and approximately 10 feet in length, with 3 feet of the pell buried in the ground. The pell has been used to teach the application of full-force strikes as far back as classical times. The classical Roman scholar Flavius Vegetius' explanation of the use of the pell is as valid today as it was then. Similarly, they gave recruits wooden foils, and [of] double weight, instead of swords. Next they were trained at the stakes not only in the morning but also in the afternoon [f]or the use of the stakes is greatly advantageous not only for soldiers but also for gladiators.
Neither the arena nor the field of battle ever proved a man invincible in arms, except those who are carefully taught training at the stake. However, single stakes ought to be fastened in the ground by individual recruits in such a way that they cannot wobble and they protrude for six feet. The recruit practiced against this stake, just as if against an enemy, with that wicker shield and foil as though with a sword and shield, so that he might aim as if for the head or face. Now he is threatened from the sides, sometimes he endeavors to cut down the hams and shins; he retreats, attacks, leaps in, as if the enemy were present; he assails the stake with all his might, fighting with all skill.
In doing this, care was taken that the recruit should strike in this way in order to cause a wound, in case he partly lays himself open to a blow. Training Progression: Training on the pell should be approached slowly at first until you adjust to the impact of full-force strikes. Remember, the point here is to learn to deliver accurate, forceful strikes at speed. Initially practice with each angle singly until you are comfortable with the application. Then begin to execute each of the figure-eight patterns of the flourishing drill. Pay particular attention to the accuracy of the tomahawk head, making sure that you hit what you are aiming at. Finally, execute the entire flourishing drill on the pell. Attitude and Visualization: All angles of the flourishing drill should be practiced with the same aggression and resolve that would be used against an actual opponent. Focus should be deliberate, dealing only with the work at hand. There should be no small talk in the vicinity of the exercise.
Mental concentration of both students and observers should be totally on the process at hand. As you execute the drill you may use visualization techniques to imagine an opponent using both offensive and defensive tactics against you. Including the Tomahawk Draw: When you consider the limited reliability of 18th- and 19thcentury flintlock firearms, it is easy to see the need for rapid employment of these backup weapons. All exercises should begin by drawing the tomahawk as part of the drill. Putting the tomahawk and long knife into action rapidly is a skill that requires regular practice to maintain and should be included as part of all exercises contained in this book. TRAINING WEAPONS AND WORK ON THE PELL The ultimate goal of any weapons training is to acquire enough skill to perform all exercises with a fully functional sharp-steel weapon.
This is commonly referred to as "live-steel" training. Common sense and sound judgment teach us that live-steel practice is limited to the pell or other targets designed to take the abuse of cutting. Under no circumstances should live steel be used when practicing techniques with a partner. In today's market there are many expensive custom-forged tomahawks that can be used for work on the pell. However, you must weigh the cost of the weapon against your level of skill to determine if you want to risk damaging the weapon. The best quality forged tomahawk edge can be chipped or bent by a poorly directed cut. It is generally recommended that you use an inexpensive cast tomahawk for live-steel pell practice until you have mastered the requisite skills.
Generally, most hardwood tomahawk trainers are not suited to pell work. Those that are constructed in the manner of a live-steel tomahawk do not possess the structural strength for extensive use over a long period. Hardwood Indian war clubs can be used for pell work. As shown in a later chapter, the war club is used much like the tomahawk and is a good substitute as a high-impact trainer. A war club made from good hardwood will absorb considerable punishment without splintering or cracking. Working with a war club on a rope-wrapped pell TRAINING WEAPONS There are many commercial knife trainers available, but to date good tomahawk trainers are rare. Most simply do not provide the weight and balance of the real weapon. Some aluminum axes are available and are fine for solo and reenactment purposes, but they are generally much too light for building muscle strength for the real tomahawk.
A last option for a tomahawk trainer is to purchase an inexpensive cast tomahawk and grind the edges off until it is smooth and round. These are reasonably safe to use with a training partner, provided that you take the weight of the weapon into account and "pull" blows to make contact light. Probably the safest method is to pad the edge with leather or cover the head with a sheath, as shown below. It slips down over the tomahawk head, where it is laced up from beneath and tied off to the handle. A padded leather cup covers the hammer poll and is laced to the sheath covering the beak. Padded leather safety sheath over the tomahawk head for training Chapter 9 THE PUNCH And at every station [we] would spend an hour or two in the exercise of tomahawk and rifle, not only for our own improvement in the use of these weapons of warfare but also to alarm the savages if they should be lurking in the neighborhood.
Historically, some war axes had a spike on the tip to facilitate use in thrusting or punching. Some head designs see right extend the edge beyond the tip, which also can produce deep puncture wounds. The tomahawk, or trade ax, we are working with does not have this capability; however, the head can produce a devastating impact wound when using the same technique. For speed of delivery and rapid engagement potential, the punch is superior to the cut or chop; it simply provides the shortest distance to the target. The punch is best delivered from a middle-guard position, with arms extended or in full chamber with either the hammer or extended grip. The long, full-choke, or half-choke position may be applied, depending on the combat range. The punch is particularly effective in gaining time against an onrushing opponent.
In this situation the head or throat is usually the target. The punch is shown on the following two pages. The drill consists of three punches to an opponent's head punches 1—3 , three punches to an opponent's midsection punches 4 —6 , and three punches to an opponent'slegs and groin punches 7—9. These areas, shown here and on the following page, will be referred to throughoutthis book. This increases the accuracy and efficiency of the strike. EXECUTING THE NINE-ANGLE PUNCH DRILL Training Task: Execute the nine-angle punch in a progressive sequence. Training Condition: You are given an anatomical silhouette wall chart or mirror, a wooden or aluminum training tomahawk, and sufficient horizontal and vertical space to perform the drill safely.
Training Standard: Execute a complete nine-angle punch drill a minimum of five repetitions 3 days a week. Overhead view of the three-punch sequence for the nine-angle punch drill 1. Position yourself in a strong-side-forward stance with the tomahawk in either left- or right-side carry. Visualize an opponent rushing you. Execute the draw and effect a hammer grip in the long position. Execute a straight punch to the opponent's face or neck. Overhead view of three-punch sequence for the nine-angle punch drill 3. Pull the arm back into a full chamber. Fire a right punch to the left side of the opponent's head while swinging the left leg to the rear. See footprints—this action shifts the trunk and body out of the line of a potential counterstrike. Overhead view of three-punch sequence for the nine-angle punch drill 4.
Pull the arm back into full chamber and fire a left punch to the right side of the opponent's head, while swinging the left leg to the rear see footprints. To complete the nineangle punch drill, repeat this sequence, targeting the midand lowline areas. EFFECTIVE PUNCH TARGETS Chapter 10 THE RAKE [F]or a while forgot that his gun was yet charged. The recollection of this, inspiring him with fresh hopes, he wheeled to fire at his pursuer, but found him so close that he could not bring his gun to bear on him. Having greatly the advantage of ground, he thrust him back with his hand. Sometimes this was preceded by throwing the tomahawk and then rushing in with the knife before the opponent could employ his sidearms.
Earlier we discussed the use of the hammer grip in the full-choke position. This is usually the position that the hand is in when initiating a tomahawk draw from a right- or left-carry position. Imagine yourself at this stage of a draw with the opponent within arm's reach and closing. There is no time to execute any of the hand shifts described earlier—the enemy is upon you! The tomahawk must be employed in close quarters with the full choke. This technique, used with the full choke at such close range, is the rake. The following pages illustrate the rake technique. This is especially effective when used against the ribs, groin, or throat. Note in the drawing below that a penetration of about 1 inch is usual. Rather, each angle is performed in an abrupt, circular, whipping action. Training Task: Execute the four-angle rake drill in a progressive sequence.
Training Condition: You are given an anatomical silhouette wall chart or mirror, a wooden or aluminum training tomahawk, and sufficient horizontal and vertical space to conduct the drill safely. Training Standard: Execute the complete four-angle rake drill a minimum of five repetitions 3 days a week. Executing the Four-Angle Rake Drill 1. Position yourself in a strong-side-forward stance with the tomahawk in a left-side-carry position. Visualize the opponent rushing you. Pass your right hand quickly across the abdomen, securing a palm-up full-choke hammer grip. As the tomahawk is pulled free of the belt, violently drive it upward in a short arc toward the opponent's midsection. NOTE: The initial impact can be directed to the groin, abdomen, chest, throat, or chin. If the intent is to double the opponent over, a strike to the groin or abdomen will produce that result. If you wish to push the opponent backward, then attack the throat or chin. Immediately rotate the wrist about degrees to point the tomahawk's head toward the ground.
Violently pull the point of the head vertically through the opponent's face, continuing this descent through the chest and abdomen. Rotate the tomahawk approximately degrees to the right, and with a circular, whipping action drag the head across the opponent's arm or chest area. As the tomahawk head clears the opponent's left arm, rotate the head approximately degrees to the left and execute a circular, whipping action to drag the tomahawk across the arm and chest area. WALL CHART FOR FOUR-ANGLE RAKE DRILL TRAINING POINTS FOR USE WITH THE FOUR-ANGLE RAKE 1.
Training Progression: Repetitions of this drill should be done slowly until the technical aspects of the rake are mastered. Remember that this is not a flowing exercise but a series of circular, whipping actions designed to disrupt and damage muscle tissue and tear ligaments. This is a violent action drill. Pell Training: This is essential to achieving accuracy with the rake. Gloves or hand protection is necessary because of the possibility of jamming the hand against the tomahawk head. Attitude and Visualization: Practice all rake exercises as if against an opponent who has advanced rapidly on you.
You are locked in close-quarter combat, and for all purposes you are in the clutches of a more powerful enemy. You must use the rake techniques to break free and create openings to attack. Including the Tomahawk Draw: All exercises should begin with the draw. The situation is that the opponent has grabbed you before completing the draw and you are in a full-choke hammer grip. Remember that angle 1 of the drill is executed directly from the draw. The tomahawk is first and foremost an offensive weapon, but it can be used defensively. The techniques in Part III should be viewed as protective action to avoid an attack while simultaneously creating an opening for a counterattack.
For our purposes there are four defensive techniques: the deflection, intercepting punch, circular catch and pull, and two-handed block. This is normally a smoothflowing action that relies on a simple rotation of the wrist or hand to take an opponent's incoming attack off the line of his intended target. Usually this action creates an opening for the delivery of a counterattack. The tomahawk does not have enough edge surface to accomplish this; therefore, the action involves a more violent deflection strike to set up delivery of a counter cut or chop. The mechanics of the deflection are abrupt and do not flow as smoothly as a parry with a sword, saber, or long knife. There are basically two types of deflections. The first involves impact with the hammer or base of the tomahawk head. The second uses either the edge or flat of the beak to deflect a strike.
For lack of specific terms, I call these base deflection and edge deflection sometimes referred to as beak deflection. Action 1: An opponent delivers an angle 2 strike to your head as you move through the middle-guard position. Abruptly pull the tomahawk head backward in an arc to intercept the incoming weapon. Note that the edge and beak of the tomahawk are trailing. Action 2: The opponent's weapon is deflected, leaving an opening. Swing the tomahawk across to the left, intercepting the incoming blade and deflecting it from the target. Simultaneously swing the left foot to the rear and pivot the right foot to the right. This moves the head and torso off the target line, facilitating a smoother deflection and revealing openings to counterattack see footprints. Action 2: The opponent delivers an angle 2 attack. The tomahawk is swung up and across, intercepting the incoming blade and deflecting it from the target to the right.
Simultaneously, the right foot is swung to the rear, and the left foot is pivoted to the left, moving off the target line. Action 3: The opponent delivers an angle 3 attack to the midsection. Swing the tomahawk across and down, deflecting the blade to the left. Simultaneously swing the left foot to the rear and pivot the right foot to the right as in action 1. Action 4: An angle 4 attack is delivered to the midsection. The tomahawk is swung over and down to the right, deflecting the incoming cut to the right. Simultaneously, the feet and body are shifted as in action 2 to move away from the line of attack. Action 5: An angle 5 attack is delivered to the legs. Abruptly angle the head of the tomahawk down and swing across to the left, deflecting the cut to that side. Simultaneously shift the feet as in action 1 to move out of line of the attack. Action 6: An angle 6 strike is delivered to the legs. Abruptly angle the head of the tomahawk down and pull across to the right, deflecting the blow to that direction.
Simultan eously, shift the feet and body as in action 2 to move out of the line of the attack. Training Progression 1. The solo base deflection drill consists of six actions. Along with the foot movement, these actions should be practiced sequentially with one action flowing smoothly into another. These can be done standing in front of a mirror or using the wall chart. The base-deflection drill can be practiced with a training partner who delivers the six angles of attack. Both partners should face each other at a range where each weapon touches only a few inches. During initial training this drill should be practiced with both partners remaining stationary. The drill begins with the attacker executing an angle 1 attack and continuing through the subsequent six angles sequentially. The defending partner executes action 1 through 6 base deflections to each respective angle.
This drill should first be performed slowly until both partners have mastered the method. Once proficiency is attained, the speed can be increased to half speed and ultimately full speed. Begin with the static position and then progress to forward, backward, and circular movements. SAFETY NOTE: Never perform these drills without effective head, eye, arm, body, and groin protection, and use only wood, blunted metal, or padded weapons, never live steel. These training exercises should be practiced in sets of three repetitions of all six base deflections a minimum of three times weekly. Attitude and Visualization 1. Proficiency is achieved by practicing all drills aggressively.
As each deflection is executed, look for or visualize potential openings in the opponent's guard for counterattack. During all drills, the attacker should take special care to give the defender safe yet accurate and realistic attacks that force him to execute the deflection correctly. WALL CHART OF INCOMING ATTACK ANGLES NOTE: This is used to assist in visualization for base-deflection drills. The relatively small size of most tomahawk heads makes this technique difficult to master, and it requires a consistent training regimen to maintain proficiency. Deflections against angles 1 and 2 attack are easier to master than those of the mid- and lowlines. Presenting the edge for impact is awkward and requires passing the legs and acutely twisting the torso. For this reason it is recommended that the edge deflection be used only against highline attacks.
Shown here is an edge deflection against a highline attack. NOTE: The training progression used for the base-deflection drill may be used for the edge-deflection techniques. Action 1: An opponent delivers an angle 1 strike to your head. Rotate the wrist to the left while simultaneously pulling the tomahawk across the body. With the edge or side of the tomahawk hit the forward portion of the incoming weapon. Action 2: On impact, pull the tomahawk through and directly into a midline counterattack. It can be used against any of the attacks on the wall chart shown earlier. Punch techniques are very effective in disrupting an attack by intercepting the blow before it achieves momentum. In this case, the punch need not always be directed against the weapon; such targets as the hand, wrist, arm, shoulder, throat, and chin may be hit to deflect the blow. Training Progression: Training for the intercepting punch can be accomplished as a solo drill using the sequence for the base-deflection drill.
Training with a Partner: Because of the potential for injury, the intercepting punch should be practiced only at slow speed and with padded weapons. Halfand full-speed drills may be performed safely by equipping the attacker with a wooden or leather buckler shield to serve as the incoming target. Again, only wooden or padded weapons should be used. Chapter 13 THE CIRCULAR CATCH AND PULL one of the obvious advantages of any tomahawk or ax is the ease with which the bill can catch an opponent's weapon or limb. The circular catch and pull is usually accomplished by hitting the head or handle on the limb or weapon and immediately dropping the hook portion of the tomahawk beak over see illustration at right.
This action is usually executed simultaneously with a lateral or upward pulling action. Although many cite the great advantages of the catch and pull, it should be used only with a clear understanding of the following principles: 1. The catch and pull is more effective against bladed weapons. When it is executed against another ax-like weapon, the technique can be easily reversed and performed against the executor. When it is performed against an empty hand, the opponent can seize the handle and twist the weapon from the user's grip. The catch-and-pull technique is very effective against the lower leg or ankle and can be used in conjunction with a variety of push and trip techniques to topple the opponent left. ANATOMY OF A CATCH AND PULL TRAINING NOTE FOR THE CIRCULAR CATCH-AND-PULL DRILL One should visualize the catch-and-pull techniques as two halfcircles, one to the left side addresses angles 1, 3, and 5 attacks and one to the right side addresses angles 2, 4, and 6 attacks.
This pattern runs from high- to lowline on the target area. In other words, the tomahawk descends to effect the catch. The drawing below depicts the aspects of the catch-and-pull technique against six angles of attack. FRONTAL VIEW OF THE HALF CIRCLES FOR THE CATCH-AND-PULL TECHNIQUE EXECUTING THE CATCH-AND-PULL SEQUENCE Training Task: Execute the catch-and-pull drill in a progressive sequence. Training Condition: You are given an anatomical silhouette wall chart or mirror, a wooden or aluminum training tomahawk, and enough horizontal and vertical space to perform the sequence safely. Training Standard: Execute at least five repetitions of the catch-and-pull drill 3 days a week.
Position yourself in a strong-side-forward stance with the tomahawk in either a left- or right-side carry. Visualize an opponent delivering angle 1 through 6 attacks. Execute the draw to an extended grip in long position. Visualize angle 1 incoming. Intercept, snare, and pull down the opponent's weapon or limb. IMPORTANT POINT: In the accompanying illustration the clearing action refers to the third action depicted in the illustration of the anatomy of a catch and pull page Once the opponent's weapon or limb has been moved to the desired position, it is necessary to disengage the tomahawk to put it back into play against the opponent. This clearing action is normally accomplished by pushing the tomahawk's head back in the opposite direction or by twisting the head to either side and continuing to pull across into a full chamber with the arm.
Execute a clearing action. This also shifts the torso away from the strike. Visualize an angle 2 incoming. Intercept, snare, pull down, and clear the opponent's weapon or limb. Visualize an angle 3 coming at your midsection. Visualize an angle 4 coming at you midsection. Visualize an angle 5 coming at your legs. Drop the head of the tomahawk down and to your left. Pull up, impact, snare, and clear. Visualize an angle 6 coming at your legs. Drop the tomahawk head down and to the right, impact, snare, pull up, and clear Chapter 14 THE TWO-HANDED BLOCK The final protection technique is the two-handed block. This is a timeless method that can be traced back through the centuries in the use of the sword, saber, staff, spear, and bayonet. Here I show only the fundamental applications; I'll leave the more detailed aspects of handling and levering for another text. The two-handed block means gripping the tomahawk with both hands: one at the end of the handle, as in a long grip, and the other next to the head.
This can be done with both hands in an overhand grip or in a mixed grip where the hand nearer the head is in the underhand position. This technique is normally used at medium or close range when an opponent's blow takes you by surprise. It is a hasty defense measure that is usually followed up with an immediate counterattack, usually preceded by pushing the opponent's weapon to the left or right to obtain an opening. These blocking measures are used against strikes from the front and horizontal attacks to either side.
A frontal attack may come in as an overhead strike to the head or shoulders or as an uppercut to the mid-thigh and groin areas. Against the overhead strike you drive both arms forcefully upward, hitting the opponent's weapon on the center of the tomahawk handle. Simultaneously, your feet slide forward. Against heavy sabers or cutlasses and the ax, the impact should be absorbed midway on the opponent's blade or handle, and the tomahawk handle should be pushed forward to hit the opponent's hands or guard. Against the upward cut, move the nearer threatened leg quickly to the rear, while simultaneously pulling the tomahawk down, striking in a manner similar to the overhead block. In the illustration below, note that the torso is twisted away from the strike. Accounts of Indian raids from the 18th century tell of individuals being knocked to the ground and subjected to devastating blows from the war club or tomahawk.
One of the advantages of mastering the frontal and horizontal blocks is their applicability to this type of combat situation. Along with these blocks, the downed victim can use his feet and legs to protect himself and deliver kicks to the opponent's legs and groin. FRONTAL BLOCK DELIVERED FROM GROUND WITH KICK The drawing below depicts another frontal block delivered from your back at a blow directed at the groin. Note that it is necessary to rise almost to the sitting position to achieve full protection. Again, the block is followed with a kick. FRONTAL BLOCK AGAINST BLOW TO GROIN WITH KICK To employ the horizontal block from the ground, raise the knee on the side of the attack and twist the torso forcefully in that direction.
Simultaneously swing the opposite leg across and deliver a kick. Do this in reverse for an attack in the opposite direction. The diagram below shows this drill. Training Standard: Execute the drill standing upright and on the ground a minimum of five repetitions 3 days a week. Position yourself in a frontal stance with the tomahawk held across the chest at the ready. Visualize an overhead blow coming in. Drive the arms forcefully upward to block, while simultaneously sliding forward to support the block. These pages offer questions and answers on separate page so you can check your work. This is a collection of chemistry worksheets in pdf format.
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Hearings Before a Subcommittee of the Committee on Appropriations, House of Representatives, One Hundred Fifth Congress, Second Session. Author : United States. Committee on Appropriations. Subcommittee on National Security. Committee on Armed Services. Projection Forces Subcommittee. PDF EPUB Download in Fiction Thomas C. Hinkle Tomahawk, Fighting Horse of the Old West Author : Thomas C. Hinkle Publisher: DigiCat ISBN: Category: Fiction Page: View: DigiCat Publishing presents to you this special edition of "Tomahawk, Fighting Horse of the Old West" by Thomas C.
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By the late 17th century, halberds and partisans had become symbols of military rank rather than fighting weapons. We do have some written sources that are sometimes relevant to the subject, and it is safe to say that some first-person oral accounts tell a true tale. Some beak shapes produce more effective chops than cuts. There are basically four types of slashes: 1 palm down, 2 palm up, 3 palm right, and 4 palm left. Follow through into a downward rake while stepping back to the left. Earlier we discussed the use of the hammer grip in the full-choke position.
If erformed properly in conjunction with the slide into the opponent, the blow may never be seen. McLemore Copyright © by Dwight C. Working with a partner. Although this theory is basically true from the practical viewpoint, no historical evidence from the Renaissance exists that this grip was also used with long knives and daggers. As this slash is completed, pull your left arm back along the same line and execute a stab. The blade length of small knives was from 2 to 3 inches. Conditions: You are given a wooden or an aluminum the fighting tomahawk pdf download knife, a wall chart depicting the eight attack angles, the fighting tomahawk pdf download, and a pell.
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